Planning to visit Iraq with your family in a rental car? Here is a summary of a real 14-day independent road trip across Iraq without a guide, including key tips on visas and driving.
Where to Start? Visa Details and Itinerary
A comprehensive itinerary can take you from northern Iraq all the way to its deep south. In the real experience of a European (Polish) family in February 2026, the route was as follows: Erbil - Mosul - Samarra - Baghdad - Babylon - Najaf - Nasiriyah - Chibayish Marshes - Ur - Karbala - then back to Erbil.
As for the visa, despite Iraq adopting a unified federal e-visa system [2], travelers arriving via Erbil Airport may still be required to purchase a specific Kurdistan Region entry visa upon arrival (paid by card). Therefore, it is highly recommended to print multiple paper copies of your electronic visa to smooth out procedures at checkpoints.
Renting a Car and Driving in Iraq
Driving in Iraq is an adventure in itself and requires absolute focus due to different driving rules. Driving conditions inside large cities are somewhat chaotic, whereas the quality of roads between major cities is generally good and comfortable. Using navigation apps like Waze is recommended for reliable routing.
A golden tip when renting a car [3]: Never hand over your passport to the rental company. You will constantly need your passport at checkpoints. It is preferable to provide your local driver's license for the company to keep, and use your international driving permit while traveling. Refueling is usually easy and hassle-free.
Dealing with Security Checkpoints
Checkpoints are scattered along the roads, especially in the north and center of the country, and you might encounter one every few kilometers. You should keep in mind that waiting times at these points can range from a few seconds to a full hour, which adds to your overall travel time.
The soldiers present will often take photos of your passports and ask questions, such as your destination and place of residence, and they might even call your host to confirm. Despite this, security personnel are always friendly and often offer water to travelers, even if they don't speak English fluently.
Accommodation, Payments, and Top Tourist Sights
Rely entirely on cash during your trip; exchanging US dollars to Iraqi Dinars (IQD) is easy and available everywhere. As for accommodation, you can mix staying in hotels with renting private tourist homes using flexible daily bookings (such as booking via WhatsApp).
When visiting historical landmarks like the ancient city of Babylon or the Ziggurat of Ur, expect relatively modest tourist infrastructure and price levels that may seem high to some tourists [1]. However, the experience of visiting the Chibayish Marshes completely makes up for it; it is considered one of the most beautiful experiences in southern Iraq, especially when staying overnight. Some tourists also prefer visiting Najaf to explore its spiritual and cultural atmosphere.
Unforgettable Iraqi Hospitality
People travel for the places but return for the amazing locals. Many independent travelers agree that the Iraqi people are the most welcoming to tourists in the world. You can expect frequent invitations to eat, drink tea, or join their picnics, and local vendors will often refuse to take money for small gifts!
Given the low number of European and Western tourists in general, you will often feel like the only tourist in the city, even in the capital Baghdad, which provides a pure and unprecedented cultural experience.
Sources
- A Real Tourist Experience in Iraq - Independent Family Travel Blog (February 2026).
- Unified Electronic Visa Website for the Republic of Iraq — evisa.iq
- Driving and Car Rental for Tourists Internationally — internationaldrivingagency.com
❓Frequently Asked Questions
Here are answers to frequently asked questions about the content above
Despite the existence of a federal e-visa, you may be asked to pay an entry visa fee specific to the Kurdistan Region exclusively upon arrival via Erbil Airport, so please check for continuous visa updates.
No, you can travel and explore Iraq independently without a guide, thanks to the friendly locals and navigation apps, but having a guide greatly enriches the historical information.
You need to pay in cash and provide your driver's license. It is essential to provide a local license for the rental company to keep and absolutely avoid handing over your passport because you will need it at checkpoints.
The time varies depending on the checkpoint and the security location; it can take anywhere from a few seconds to about an hour while passports are examined and photographed, so this should be factored into your time planning.
Reliance is almost entirely on cash for various purchases, but exchanging US dollars into Iraqi Dinars is simple and very easy at common exchange shops.
February, late winter, and early spring are considered among the best times to visit Iraq, as temperatures range from 20 to 30 degrees Celsius with sunny and pleasant weather ideal for outdoor exploration.
