Masgouf is an Iraqi grilled freshwater fish dish, widely regarded as the country's national specialty. Cooks split whole carp (shabbout) or barbel (bunni) from the back, salt the meat, and mount it on stakes beside an open fire. The fish cooks slowly using indirect heat before the cook browns the skin directly over wood embers.
Where to try it:
In Baghdad, the main concentration of masgouf restaurants is along Abu Nuwas Street on the east bank of the Tigris River. The area comes alive in the evening with families and diners. You can also find masgouf restaurants along riverfronts across central and southern Iraq, as well as in Basra. Confirm opening hours and fish availability with the venue before you travel.
Regional differences and sides:
Cooks in central and southern Iraq traditionally use open wood fires and river carp. Northern variations often cook the fish in a clay oven. Restaurants serve the fish with fresh tannour flatbread, pickled vegetables (torshi), onion, lemon, and tangy mango pickle sauce (amba). Seasonings and side dishes vary between kitchens.
Allergy guidance:
Masgouf contains finfish. Tannour bread contains gluten, and accompaniments like amba or salads may contain mustard or sesame. Grills and prep counters often handle multiple foods, so cross-contamination is a real risk. Do not assume every restaurant uses the same recipe. Speak directly with the kitchen staff about your specific allergies before you order.
Sources: Embassy of the Republic of Iraq in Washington, D.C., Wikivoyage - Baghdad, Wikipedia - Masgouf.
Checked on 2026-10-26.